INSTALLATION MANUAL

 

INSTALLATION PROCEDURES


Note:  If you want to see a larger version of a picture click on it. For a full screen, high resolution version click on the type in blue next to each picture.

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE YOU BEGIN

  1. Medium strength thread locker is recommended on all threaded fasteners that do not have lock washers.

  2. Ultra Black OEM hi-temp RTV silicone is to be used on all sealing surfaces.

  3. Use 75-90 weight gear oil in the Planetary Crawler. Synthetic is recommended. Unit is filled to just below the input seal, roughly 3/4" below half way. Less than 1 quart is used.

  4. Place all parts from kit on a flat surface so that you can get familiar with the contents. Your basic kit should include:

 Cable Shifter: Cable and Lever Kit.

 12K Version

  1. Crawl box.

  2. Output shaft that goes from crawl box to t-case.

  3. Shift link bar (a flat piece of stainless steel about 1" long by .400 wide, with a hole at each end).

  4. 1" diameter (or 1.25" diameter for 31/32 spline applications) aluminum spacer to set output shaft end play. (Not used in some kits, such as Dana 20 or 10 spline NP203/205 kits).

  5. (12) 3/8 - 16 all-thread studs (2 Different lengths possible - depends on the application, 6 each).

  6. (12) 3/8-16 nuts, washers and lock washers.

  7. Spacer (optional).

  8. Mounting Foot (optional), most common "universal" version shown. Version for NP205 Chevy or NP205 Ford have application specific hole pattern and notches.

  9. Adapter(s) (as needed - there may be no adapters needed or more then one adapter depending on the application).

  10. Shifter Kit (Cable or Direct style - comes with instructions to assemble)

  1. The transfer case will have to be removed from the vehicle.

    Note: In some applications transmission may have to be removed from the vehicle. This applies where an adapter with a new main shaft needs to be installed in the transmission. Instructions for installation of this adapter will be included with the adapter.

  2. The transfer case shift linkage will have to be removed and modified. The modifications done depend on the type of application. See addendum A for details. 

  3. Clean sealing surface areas for both transfer case and transmission of any old gasket material or silicone.

PREPARATION FOR PROPER MATE UP TO TRANSMISSION

  1. If an adapter is required between your transmission and the Planetary Crawler, install it or have it installed (according to instructions provided with the adapter) at this time.

  2. Slide planetary crawler onto the output shaft of your transmission, with no gasket. Do not bolt it up at this time. Make sure the output shaft of the transmission does not bottom out in the crawl box input gear. The sealing surface should come together. If they do not then the output shaft of the transmission  will have to be shortened. Judge amount to be shortened by the distance between the two sealing surfaces. (Note: Verify the problem is not insufficient spline depth on the transmission output shaft. The splines on the inside of the Crawler input gear must have sufficient spline to slide onto on the transmission output shaft).

  3. Make sure that the transmission output shaft will slide into the Klune input shaft so SPLINE CONTACT will be at least 1.35" deep. This will ensure a full strength connection

    Note: If the input shaft of the underdrive does not interface fully with the rear seal of the transmission, this is not a problem. Simply make sure: 

    a) That there is sufficient spline contact, as above

    b) If there is any weep hole in the bottom of the tailhousing, seal it up from the inside using silicon sealant or JB Weld 

    c) When installing the Klune to the Trans, fully seal the flanges so oil cannot leak

    You will now have oil in the tailhousing. This does not harm, and it is actually nice to lubricate the shaft splines. As long as everything is sealed so it does not leak. There is a seal in the front of the Klune Underdrive that will prevent fluids from moving between the two cases.

     

  1. Verify that the Planetary Crawler Input gear does not bottom on any part of the transmission. 

picture_2A.jpg (12752 bytes)
Crawler being pushed onto back of transmission. 12K Version

MOUNTING THE PLANETARY CRAWLER TO THE TRANSFER CASE                 

  1. Remove the inspection cover from the side of the crawl box.

  2. The transfer case should be set on a flat surface.

  3. Screw the studs into the t-case using a medium strength thread locker. The studs should be screwed in approximately 5/8" deep. 2" studs are used when you are using a mounting foot, 1.75" studs are used when you are not using a mounting foot. 3" St1uds are used when a spacer is used. Make sure transfer case spins freely: Turn both the inputs and outputs of the transfer case to make sure the studs do not interfere with gears inside. If this occurs determine which one is touching the gear and back it out until the transfer case turns smoothly. Note: The stock studs may not need to be replaced: Check for proper length.

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Studs installed on front of Ford NP205.   23K Version

  1. If a spacer is being used, position spacer over the studs on the front of the transfer case. (NP205 applications ONLY: One of the notches machined into the side of the spacer will allow the spacer to clear the shift rail if it doesn't seem to fit, turn over the spacer.)

picture_4a_clipped_copy.jpg (9535 bytes)

Spacer and studs on Ford NP205.

 17K Version

  1. Position mounting foot (if used) over studs on front of transfer case (on top of spacer, if a spacer is being used). The base of the foot, where the rubber mount will bolt, should face away from the T-case.

picture_4b_clipped_copy.jpg (10937 bytes)

Spacer and mounting foot on studs on Ford NP 205.

   21K Version
  1. It is necessary at this point to check the end-play of the output shaft of the crawl box. The output shaft of the Planetary Crawler floats freely (fore and aft) in its position. It must have some (at least .050") free play, but should be constrained from moving no more than .200". End play should be between 0.05" - 0.20", with .100 being nominal. The following step gives the procedure.
picture_4c_clipped_copy.jpg (14642 bytes)

Placing spacer into input gear of transfer case.

    25K Version
  1. Insert output shaft into crawl box and slide assembly over the six studs. (If you are using a mounting foot, this is done with the mounting foot in place). At this point it will either bottom out in the transfer case input shaft or the sealing surfaces between the t-case and the crawl box will meet. If shaft bottoms out then output shaft will need to be shortened by cut-off saw or grinder to proper end-play stated in above. If there is end-play then it needs to be checked by moving the shaft back and forth through inspection cover window using a long object such as a screwdriver. If the shaft moves more then the amount called out above, this needs to be taken up by using an aluminum spacer (supplied). The spacer is supplied too long; It will have to be shortened to achieve the end-play spec stated above. The way this works, is the correct length spacer is inserted into the input shaft of the T-case. This then limits how far the Crawler output shaft can slide into the T-case input gear.
picture_6_resized_copy.jpg (12700 bytes)
Crawl box on NP205 with spacer and mounting foot in place. 23K Version
  1. NP205 applications only: The transfer case shift rail and crossbar will need to be ground down as shown for clearance. The shift rail must be able to travel to its farthest out position without being stopped by the crawler body.
Picture 6A resized.jpg (9604 bytes)
NP205 case: Arrow shows area where shift rail must be ground. 25K Version
  1. Once you have the correct crawler main-shaft end play set, remove the crawler as well as any spacer or mounting foot from the T-case. 
  2. Apply silicone liberally on the rear flange surface of the crawler box. 
  3. Apply silicone on both sides of the mounting foot (if used), where it will need to seal between the crawler rear flange and the T-case front mounting surface or the spacer. Position the mounting foot over the studs on the front of the T-case.
  4. Apply silicone on both sides of the spacer (if used), where it will need to seal between the crawler rear flange or the mounting foot and the T-case front mounting surface. 
  5. Position the spacer (if any) and mounting foot (if used) over the studs on the front of the transfer case. Position crawler partially over the studs on the T-case (make sure output shaft is in the crawler and is fitting properly into the splines and bearing inside the crawler). Thread a flat washer, lock washer and nut a few turns on each stud.
  6. Snug them down in a cross pattern, slowly bringing sealing surfaces together.
  7. Tighten them down.
  8. This is a good time to double check end-play on the output shaft one more time before installing the inspection cover. Make sure it moves freely and still has the proper end-play stated above.
  9. Install the inspection cover back on the crawl box. Use silicone between the inspection cover and the crawl box. Apply a generous amount into the threaded holes in crawl box and onto the threads of the ¼-20 socket head cap screws and tighten down in a cross pattern.
Completed crawler / T-case assembly, with spacer and mounting foot. 17K Version

PREPARING TO INSTALL THE CRAWLER/T-CASE COMBINATION INTO THE VEHICLE

  1. (This step applies only if you are using the cable shifter. This part is not used with the "direct" lever shifter) Install supplied shift link bar onto crawl box shift rod. Use a roll pin (supplied) to fasten link bar to shift rod. Install shift cable onto shift box cover. The shift lever will be mounted later. Attach the shift cable to the link bar.
  2. Determine desired "Clocking position" of transfer case. In most cases it will be possible to simply use the center hole in each pattern of five on the front of the crawler. This position will provide zero clocking. Clocking is an added feature of the crawler that makes possible a more optimum clocking position of the transfer case. 
Picture 8 copy.jpg (7167 bytes)
Picture showing studs in the center, or "zero clocking" position. 17K Version
  1. The front of the crawler has five different clocking positions available in the bolt pattern tapped into the front of the crawl box. This allows some adjustment of the angle the transfer case "clocks" into the vehicle. The factory installation of the transfer case usually has the front output yoke at a lower level than the rear output yoke, with the T-case clocked at an angle. This allows the front drive shaft to clear the transmission. With the transfer case spaced farther away from the transmission, and a shorter rear drive shaft, it is often useful to rotate, or "clock" the transfer case to a more level position. In this way, the rear output of the T-case can be at a lower position with zero loss of ground clearance, while getting a more optimum rear drive line angle. Optimum clocking is determined by getting the best ground clearance possible, consistent with adequate front drive shaft to trans clearance at full compression of the front suspension, as well as the best possible rear drive line angle. 

    The center hole in each group of 5 stud holes will allow a straight through clocking of the T-case to the transmission, just as if the trans was bolted directly to the T-case. (Note: The above assumes that the Crawl box halves have been assembled at zero degrees to one another. Zero degrees is the way these boxes are shipped from the factory, unless a custom adaptation clocking arrangement has been ordered. Virtually any clocking arrangement desired can be obtained through the use of non-zero clockings of the case halves. 

Re-Clocking Instruction Sheet: ReClocking KV Case Halves

If you want to spend the time and energy, it is possible to gain the best possible optimization as described above. This matters most in vehicles with short rear drive shafts. What you do, is you put the crawler/T-case combo into the vehicle, and look at it to estimate the best clocking. Try different rotations, and visualize front drive shaft clearance, while optimizing drive line angle and ground clearance. Use a marker to mark on the side of the crawler case the stud positions for the optimum clocking you find.

  1. Install (6) studs onto the front of the Crawl Box into the threaded stud mounting holes as determined in the "clocking" section above. Use thread-locking sealant. The studs should go ½ to 5/8 of an inch into the front of the crawler.

INSTALLATION OF PLANETARY CRAWLER INTO VEHICLE

  1. Apply silicone liberally on the front mounting surface of the crawl box.
  2. Take the crawl box/transfer case assembly and install it onto the transmission.
  3. Install flat washers, lock washers and nuts onto the studs protruding through the transmission flange.
  4. Snug them down in a cross pattern slowly bringing sealing surfaces together.
  5. Tighten them down.
  6. Clean all surfaces of excess silicone sealant.

LUBRICATION

Use 75-90 weight gear oil in the Planetary Crawler. Synthetic is recommended. Unit is filled to just below the input seal, roughly 3/$" below half way. You may select one of the various removable plugs on the unit that end up at this level to act as a check-port. Unit can be filled thru the vent tube until oil comes out this check port. Less than 1 quart is used

[CABLE SHIFTER ONLY] INSTALLATION OF SHIFT CABLE AND LEVER

  1. The shift handle can be mounted in any convenient location where the cable will reach. It can either be mounted using the angle bracket supplied or its design allows you to mount directly to a flat surface. 
pcx_with_shifter_handle_diagram.jpg (13538 bytes)
Shifter cable attached to shift box showing the correct assembly of all detail parts. 21K Version
  1. In order to mount the shift handle a 5/8 diameter hole must be drilled through the floor so that the cable can be slipped through. Use a grommet or a split piece of hose over the cable to protect it from the raw edge of the hole in the floor. Cable ties can be used to secure the hose to the cable. Now the cable can be screwed into the shift handle housing. Follow the directions supplied with the shifter to put the rest of the parts together.

[DIRECT SHIFTER ONLY] DIRECT SHIFTER INSTALLATION

Assemble as shown in picture.

picture_14_at_with_diagram.jpg (15314 bytes)

Picture of crawler assembly in vehicle.

 15K Version

INSTALLATION OF CROSS MEMBER

Usually, one of two methods are used for mounting and support.

Existing rear-of-Trans or Trans adapter mount

In many cases, it is possible to use the existing mount under the rear of the Trans, or on the transmission adapter. The drawback to this method is that, with the Planetary Crawler installed, the weight of the transfer case is suspended out pretty far behind the mount. With no support at the transfer case, there is concern that the weight of the T-case, when going over a large bump or drop, may tear the mounting bolts out or crack the transmission or adapter case. We have been successful in simple bolting an additional piece of steel channel or tubing between the frame rails, and mounting a rubber or urethane snubber under the tail housing or appropriate location on the transfer case. This snubber is mounted up in contact with, but not pushing on the T-case. When a bump is encountered, the transmission mount compresses slightly under the load, and the weight of the transfer case is supported by the snubber.

Picture is showing snubber installed in Wrangler skid plate. Snubber supports rear of T-case when vehicle drops over a bump. 16K Version

Klune-V Planetary Crawler Mounting Foot

In some applications, it is preferable to not use the original transmission or transmission adapter mounting locations at all. A steel "mounting foot", available from Klune-V, can be bolted in at the rear of the Crawler. Then the original cross member is re-located farther back on the frame rails, or a new cross member is fabricated and bolted up to the frame rails. In the case of a Wrangler or vehicle with factory skid-plate support, new holes can simply be drilled in the skid-plate for a tranny mount below the mounting foot. A rubber mount such as a GM transmission mount or a Jeep rubber transmission support should be used between the mounting foot and the cross member or skid-plate. In this case, the rear snubber is not necessary. 

This system provides full support for the drive line with optimal weight distribution.

Picture 16 at 240 dpi.jpg (24790 bytes)
Mounting foot provides rear mounting point for drive train with proper weight distribution and support. Mounting foot shown ready for cross member installation below it (shown with GM type rubber mount bolted to mounting foot). 30K Version

(If Necessary) Cross Member Fabrication

The way we usually fabricate a cross member: We cut 2 lengths of 2x3 inch steel angle about 6 inches long. These are bolted to the frame rails so that a narrow shelf results inside the frame rails on both sides. A piece of 3" steel channel is cut to fit up over these "shelves" between the frame rails. We then weld this channel to the angle pieces. It is sometimes necessary to trim the channel to clear the front drive shaft. If too much must be cut for adequate support, we cut an additional section of channel about 6 inches long, and weld it inverted below the cut out part of the main channel.

This is one idea. There are many different ways cross members can be fabricated. Feel free to call us for technical information on fabricating cross members. 

Picture 17A copy.jpg (4540 bytes)
Cross member fabricated for use in a Bronco with an NP205 T-case. 6K Version

Picture 17B.jpg (28767 bytes)
Picture of cross member fabricated and installed in Jeep J1000 with Dana 20 T-case. 34K Version

 

Picture 17C at 240 dpi.jpg (26622 bytes)
Different view of J1000 cross member. Note section welded on under the T-case acting as a skid plate for the T-case. Not visible in this view, the top of the channel had to be notched to clear front driveshaft. 31K Version

Considerations in dealing with high torque vehicle applications:

These considerations apply to any high torque rear wheel or four wheel drive motor vehicle application to a greater or lesser degree. Lots of engine, or a smaller engine but lots of gear reduction will add up to lots of torque capability, twisting at the drive shaft. This torque must be transmitted through all of the bolted together parts of the drive train back to the engine, and then transferred to the frame through the engine mounts. It is a real good idea to address this problem, before your motor mounts fail or you crack a tranny case or something. 

We have seen drag racers and four wheelers who weld a chain to the frame, and the other end bolted to the head of the engine. Then when the engine torques, the chain gets tight, and nothing breaks. This method is crude, but does keep the motor mounts from tearing.

Motor Mounts: If you rely only on the motor mounts for torque control, it is necessary to use racing quality motor mounts, which are designed to hold rubber or urethane under compression, and will not tear loose. 

Torque Arm: A better method of addressing this problem is a "Torque Arm". A Torque arm is an arm mounted outboard from the rear transmission mount or adapter mount or the transfer case, and tied, through a rubber mount, to the cross member or the frame. Better motor mounts or a chain still do not keep the torque loads off of the Trans, adapters, and all of the bolts. A Torque Arm acts as an outrigger, so that when large amounts of torque are developed at the rear of the transfer case, the torque is directly transmitted to the frame, rather than up through the whole drive train. 

Picture 18 copy.jpg (12696 bytes)
Torque arm idea: 1 x 1 tubing welded to steel plate. This is bolted in place of the inspection cover of the NP205 shown. Torque arm bolts to GM type mount, which is in turn bolted to a section of angle welded to the cross member. 27K Version

 

New Process 205 Transfer cases have a drilled and tapped boss at the outer end of the case. This is intended to be mounted, through a rubber mount, to the frame. This is an example of how the factory has addressed the problem in one instance. Jeep Wranglers are also designed from the factory with a kind of small outrigger to address this issue.


MODIFICATION AND INSTALLATION OF DRIVE SHAFTS

Drive shaft lengths will usually have to be modified when installing the planetary crawler. Once the crawl box cross member is installed, now drive shaft lengths can be measured. Make sure vehicle weight is completely on suspension to get proper drive shaft measurements. Move the vehicle and rotate T-case and front axle yokes so that all four yokes are oriented parallel to the ground. Measure the distance from the center of where the U-joint goes on the differential yoke to the center of where the U-joint goes on the T-case yoke. Drive shafts and these measurements can be taken to your local drive shaft specialist shop to get them modified. It is okay to call us with any specific questions that may come up. See drawing at back.


ADDENDUM A: SPECIFIC NOTES REGARDING T-CASE SHIFTER MODIFICATION

JEEP NP231 TRANSFER CASE STYLE

This style shifter mechanism bolts on the transmission. It stays in its stock location. What will have to be done is the linkage rod itself will have to be lengthened. The transfer case linkage in this type of application consists of an adjustment block and screw. A rod comes from the adjusting block, bends at a right angle connects to a plate that is slotted to go on the transfer case. This shifter assembly is approximately 3-7/8 inches long. Cut the linkage rod of the shifter somewhere after the adjustment block area. You will need to add 6 ½ inches of 3/8 diameter mild steel rod or 7.5 inches of 3/8 ID tubing (slide tubing over cut ends of linkage rod ½ inch on each end before welding. This will extend rod the needed 6 ½ inches. Welding is required to do this. If your NP231 setup used a spacer behind the Crawler, you need to extend the shift linkage 7 ½ inches. Adjustments might have to be made due to the difference in length after welding.

The four vacuum lines going to the transfer case will have to be lengthened. Cut them approximately 10" from the plug going to the transfer case. Three feet of 5/32 vacuum hose will need to be purchased. This will be used to slide over the end of the existing cut vacuum lines. Cut four 7-1/2" lengths. Start with the plug end first. Use finger to put a coating of silicone around the outside of the existing lines. Do this ¼" from the end. Be sure not to get any inside of the vacuum line. This will cause blockage. Now take each of the four pieces 5/32 hose and slide approximately ½'' over the lines coming from the plug. It is recommended to allow this to dry before doing the same thing on the other end. Repeat procedures described above for the other end. Make sure that while the silicone is drying the hose does not slide off the lines. Support plug and lines, while they are drying.

Note: In this application the heat shield for the stock muffler needs to be notched to compensate for the transfer case moving back. 


NP 205 TRANSFER CASE 
FORD AND CHEVY STYLE

When using the KLUNE -V Planetary crawler, the original adapter housing between the transmission and transfer case may not be used. The crawl box assembly will go in its place. Because of this the shifter mounting area is eliminated. The carriage bolt that screws into the old adapter can be utilized for the new mounting location. With NP 435 (Ford) and SM465 (Chevy) transmissions there is a modified adapter housing that goes between the crawl box and the transmission. The new location for the transfer case lever will be on the adapter housing.

An angle bracket may be bolted to the adapter-housing fin using the suggested items listed below. Left or right side will depend on application. The old carriage bolt can be used with a 9/16 nut and washer to bolt the transfer case shift lever to the angle bracket. On the transfer case there are two shift pins and a shift link bar which connect the two together. This assembly needs to be modified to clear the back of the crawl box when it is shifted into HIGH-RANGE. Remove the shift link bar and grind approximately ¼" off of the bar. Follow drawing supplied for exact placement of modification. Also the hole in shift link will have to be drilled out to 25/64" diameter. The shift pin closest to the crawl box will need to be modified also. Grind approximately 1/16" off the pin. This can be done with a hand held grinder.

Picture 20C at 240 dpi.jpg (7115 bytes)
Shows a shifter fabricated to mount to the rear transmission mount cast into the case of a T700R4 transmission. The turbo 400 and turbo 350 have a similar mounting location cast in.  

 

8K Version

We suggest you buy these items to fabricate the new shift linkage:

  1. (2) heim joints (3/8" hole with 3/8-24 female threaded end)
  2. (2) 3/8-24 nuts
  3. (1) length of 3/8-24 all thread (about 1')
  4. (4) 3/8-16 Socket head cap screws
  5. (4) 3/8-16 Nyloc nuts
  6. (1) 9/16-12 nut
  7. (1) 9/16 flat washer
  8. (1) steel angle (2" x 2" x 1/4" thick x 2 ½" long) 
Picture 20A at 240 dpi.jpg (13890 bytes)
Picture shows how a short section of angle was mounted to a rib on the transmission adapter casting. This angle was then used to mount the factory shift lever. 15K Version

 

Picture 20B at 240 dpi.jpg (17781 bytes)
Shows a linkage rod made up from all thread and two heim rod ends. This application is shifting an NP205 T-case. 22K Version